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Skin peels
- Would you like younger looking skin?
- Do you have lines and wrinkles, or skin discoloration?
- Will you remember to use a sunscreen alongside your treatment?
If you can honestly answer 'yes' to those questions, expecially about the sunscreen, then you are probably a good candidate for AHAs. Only concentrations over 8% with a low pH work for wrinkle removal. Studies show a low percent AHA, providing it is over 8%, used over a longer period will give the same results as expensive, stronger AHA treatments by dermatologists. (See below.)
AHA / Glycolic acid / Fruit acid.
The following are all types of AHAs, if you see them in the ingredients of a cosmetic, it should have some peeling effect depending on how high up the ingredients list it is:-
- Alpha hydroxy and botanical complex
- Alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
- Alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
- glycolic acid
- Hydroxycaprylic acid
- L-alpha hydroxy acid
- Lactic acid
- Mixed fruit acid
- Sugar cane extract
- Triple fruit acid
- Tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
How do skin peels work?
Gentle skin peels work by loosening the top layer of cells on the skin allowing them to fall away to reveal the fresh new skin underneath. This skin will be even more sensitive to to UV light as usual so it is necessary to use your sunblock for at least a week after a peel has finished, and I would recommend a month.
Stronger skin peels burn away the top layer of skin forcing your skin to heal itself. This healing process will often take away unsightly wrinkles and force the skin to deposit new collagen, and the deeper the peel the deeper the wrinkle it will remove. Deeper peels also leave you at more risk of infection, and they are not suitable for the darker Fitzpatrick skin types. For deeper peels of this kind - which can have dramatic effects taking ten years off your cosmetic age, you need to see a professional dermatologist and be prepared to take a few weeks off work (you will look like something from Night of The Living Dead for a couple of weeks).
Scientific research on skin peels
Here is some research on AHA peels. I translated it into plain english. Click on the titles if you want to find out more, such as who conducted the experiment, and where.
Cosmetic use of alpha-hydroxy acids [AHAs].
"Frequent and daily use of cosmetic and skin-care products that contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) moisturizes the skin and produces smoother, less-wrinkled skin surfaces. The cosmetic products developed as astringents and exfoliants diminish skin scales and remove excess skin oil. New studies suggest that photodamaged skin improves with AHA treatment."
"Treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness. The epidermis was thicker and papillary dermal changes included increased thickness, increased acid mucopolysaccharides, improved quality of elastic fibers, and increased density of collagen. No inflammation was evident. CONCLUSION: Treatment with AHAs produced significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photoaging."
"Our study shows that Glycolic Acid [one type of AHA] not only directly accelerates collagen synthesis by fibroblasts, but it also modulates matrix degradation and collagen synthesis through keratinocyte-released cytokines.. These results suggest that Glycolic Acid contributes to the recovery of photodamaged skin through various actions, depending on the skin cell type."
Alpha-Hydroxy acid-based cosmetic procedures. Guidelines for patient management.
"alpha-Hydroxy acid (AHA) peels and home regimens have recently been recognized as important adjunctive therapy in a variety of conditions including photodamage, actinic damage, melasma, hyperpigmentation disorders, acne, and rosacea. Overall in our experience and in the literature, AHAs have a proven level of safety and efficacy in a variety of skin types. Although their exact mechanism of action is unknown, it has been demonstrated that AHAs improve these disorders by thinning the stratum corneum, promoting epidermolysis, dispersing basal layer melanin, and increasing collagen synthesis within the dermis. In patients with photodamage, AHA peels and topical products are often combined with retinoids and other antioxidants for maximum benefit."
Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin.
"Chronic solar irradiation [sunburn] results in both morphologic and functional changes in affected skin. Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, have been shown to improve photodamaged skin... RESULTS: Epidermal and dermal hyaluronic acid and collagen gene expression were all increased in glycolic acid-treated skin... Our data suggest that epidermal and dermal remodeling of the extracellular matrix results from glycolic acid treatment."
"Both in vivo and in vitro, glycolic acid treatment increased the production of collagen and fibroblast proliferation. These effects may be the mechanism by which glycolic acid reverses the process of photoaging."
"The results showed increased cell proliferation and collagen production in response to glycolic acid in a dose dependent manner. The range of cell proliferation and collagen production were significantly higher with glycolic acid treatment than with malic acid or control. It was suggested that the favorable effects of glycolic acid treatment on aging skin were mediated by increased cell proliferation in addition to functional activation of fibroblasts."
Cutaneous and psychosocial benefits of alpha hydroxy acid use.
"Alpha hydroxy acids are used extensively by patients and consumers for restorative cutaneous purposes. The current study of 32 patients evaluated the clinical and psychosocial effects of this cosmetic therapy. After 12 weeks, significant clinical improvements were found for facial skin tone and fine wrinkling, as well as for patient-reported satisfaction with physical appearance."
Considerations in alpha hydroxy acid peels.
"Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been used as cosmetic agents since ancient times. In low concentrations AHAs cause a decrease in corngocyte cohesion. In higher concentrations they result in epidermolysis and upper dermal changes, producing a vibrant, less wrinkled, and more uniformly colored skin. The method of application is important as is decreasing pH to increase the AHA bioavailability."
Management of facial hyperpigmentation.
"Chemical peels are useful to treat melasma: trichloroacetic acid, Jessner's solution, Unna's paste, alpha-hydroxy acid preparations, kojic acid, and salicyclic acid, alone or in various combinations have shown good results."
Dangers and side effects of peels
However..
Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light.
"Short-term application of 10% glycolic acid sensitizes the skin to the damaging effects of UV light. This photosensitivity is reversed within a week of terminating treatments."
Sasha recommends..
I suggest you use a peel as a regular part of your beauty routine as it will plump out your skin and help get rid of wrinkles and discoloration. 8% is strong enough if you use it often, and should be gentle enough for all skin types. You can buy Glycolic acid products hereBut it is very important you avoid sun exposure afterwards for at least a week, and I would say wear a total sunblock at all times while using glycolic acid, AHAs or any other type of home or professional peel.
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